This is one of the most celebrated, most unique sherries Emilio produces. Even the greatest haunts of quality and value (the Loire, Jura, Germany, etc) are going to be more and more challenged by this special place and its wines. Wait and see.

From the outset, La Panesa was intended to be a special wine. It was founded in 1961 to celebrate the birth of Alfonso Rodriguez, the Hidalgo brothers' first nephew. La Panesa represents a selection from the best barrels in Hidalgo's basic fino solera, which are then fed into the seven special criaderas for Panesa.

This is only the start, though. What makes a fino a fino is that it is protected by a veil of flor yeasts. These yeasts have definite requirements in terms of temperature and humidity. They also require constant attention and need to be fed with nutrients by being refreshed with new wines or they die, at which point the wine begins aging oxidatively. Even with the most lavish attention, the flor typically starts dying off at eight to ten years at most.

Hidalgo manages to keep La Panesa's flor going for 15 years - an almost miraculous feat. It requires storing the barrels in the most humid section of Hidalgo's bodega and, more importantly, very careful refreshing of the soleras with just enough nutrients to keep the flor going, slow and steady.

This is a beautiful testament to the artisanship, to the care and dedication required to make great Sherry.